Week 3 Notes Homework and Videos

 NOTE 1:  MOST NOTES REMAIN THE SAME FROM WEEK 2 EXCEPT WE ARE NOW WORKING ON DISTRACTIONS.  THIS MEANS YOU CAN WORK OUTDOORS, BUT BE SURE THAT THE ENVIRONMENT IS CHALLENGING BUT NOT OVERWHELMING.  INDOORS, WE ARE WORKING WITH SOUNDS AND VISUALS ON YOUTUBE OR OTHER TV/MOVIE.

NOTE 2:  INSIDE AUDIO AND/OR VISUAL DISTRACTIONS: THESE YOUTUBE VIDEOS CAN HELP WITH THAT.  REMEMBER YOU DO NOT HAVE TO START WITH THE HARDEST.

DOGGIE DAYCARE VISUAL & NOISES

DOGGIE NOISES ONLY

NOTE 3:  INSIDE OR OUTSIDE DISTRACTIONS THAT MAY NEED A HELPER OR A DISTANCE CLOSE TO CHALLENGING THINGS:

  1. Moving furniture around 
  2. Something fast moving (maybe grandkids as long as it is safe and he won't lash out OR he is far away to be safe)
  3. On the Long Sands boardwalk (grassy part near the bathhouse), working around people and/or dogs walking by.  FYI, it does not have to be the perfect day with many dogs.
  4. If you are on the beach during a walk, a leashed dog (6' leash or 15' leash), doing a session of leashed training for 5-10 minutes.
I would put more, but remember that at distances Mickey is not good at these distractions.  As the distractions increase, the most important part is to be able to get to the goal at the times AND just being able to get the number goal (4 in a row OR 3 sets of 4 in a row) in 15 minutes is the MOST IMPORTANT PART.  The time and the distance DO NOT matter as much right now.  We are working on the behavior.  So as we work on the behavior, the important part is that he is getting better adjusted.  You want to look at his body language and other signs that tell you he is still stressed or reactive about the distractions.  You want this to change to a dog that looks and acts a lot more relaxed.  

NOTE 4:  THESE ARE SOME OUTDOOR VENUES THAT I USE WHEN I AM PRACTICING OUTDOOR DISTRACTIONS.  

  1. Long Sands Beach Grassy Spot Near the Bath House:  You can sit on one of the picnic tables that is further away.  
  2. Ellis Park at Short Sands.  There is plenty of grass space to have distance.  Also, the gazebo towards the road usually has benches in there and is shady.
  3. Nubble Light House:  There is a grassy area there next to the gift shop that I use to work the dogs for outside distractions.  There is probably a granite bench somewhere a little away from people, but I am not sure.  It may be too congested to do a "Sit on the Dog," and unless there are no people, the barking could be a bit much.
  4. Dunne's Ice Cream:  This might be a little early for Mickey, and I have never used it.  However, when a dog gets really good at impulse control and regulating their reactions, I have always thought this would be a good place to do it.

CALMING EXERCISES:

Distractions:  As boring as these are, you want to now move them to somewhere more challenging for him.  "Sit on the Dog" is the easiest one to move around.  However, there are ways you could start "Long Place" on the move.  ***This does not mean all your homework has to be at these places, but if you have the opportunity, please do this.  Otherwise, try the challenging items listed above inside at your cottage, OR if Mickey can hear or see video outside, then that will do as well.

NOTE FOR CALMING EXERCISES:  ROTATE THESE ON OPPOSITE DAYS.  ALSO, IF YOU HAVE TIME FOR "LONG PLACE" ON A "SIT ON THE DOG" DAY, YOU COULD DO 5 MINUTES IF YOU WANTED TO WHEREVER YOU ARE.  OTHERWISE, "LONG PLACE" SHOULD BE 30 MINUTES.

1.   Sit On The Dog 30 + minutes (your first few days of exposure may take longer than 30 minutes and possibly an hour****)   Goal:  To get your dog habituated or exposed to challenging but not overwhelming distractions.  ***I don't think Mickey would take an hour, but I have not seen him outside working yet with distractions.  Week 3 Note:  If my dog is going to bark their heads off for a while, I try to get a good distance away from the distraction.

This video is an example of what I mean.  This is an oldie with Rosie as the dog.  I think she was fearful, but I didn't do good descriptions back then.


2.  Long Place 5 minutes if there is an opportunity on "Sit on the Dog" days, but otherwise 30 minutes. Goal:  For your dog to remain on their place 5 minutes at least, and eventually 30 minutes, with indoor and outdoor distractions used.  Start with indoor distractions first.  If the visual is too much, you can start with just audio.  Week 3 Notes:  If it is not too soon, you can use benches at Ellis Park or at the Long Sands Bath House, but do not use a long line there instead use the 6' leash and have a really firm grip on it with focus so you are not caught unawares.  You can use the long line at your cottage to practice place outside if you have enough room.  I ALWAYS DO THIS WITH THE LONG LINE ATTACHED TO SOMETHING THAT CANNOT MOVE, A FENCE POST (WITH THE HANDLER OVER IT), A TREE (I PUT THE LONG LINE AROUND THE TREE AND THREAD THE LEASH THROUGH.  THEN I ATTACH THE CLIP TO THE COLLAR OR THROUGH THE HANDLE OF A SLIP LEAD), OR IF DISTANCE AND TIME OR TOO MUCH A 6' LEAD THAT I HOLD.

This is an example of what I mean with Fudge in my yard.


OBEDIENCE EXERCISES:

Work on the following WITH audio and/or video distractions.  When it makes sense or is possible, work on these outdoors at places like the examples that I listed.

NOTE 1:  FOR OBEDIENCE EXERCISES, YOU ARE DOING WELL IF A 15 SESSION INCLUDES ALL YOUR GOALS FOR TWO OR THREE OF THESE EXERCISES.

NOTE 2:  FOR OBEDIENCE EXERCISES, IF YOU ARE WALKING WITH YOUR DOG DOING THIS, THE  TIMES WILL BE HIGHER (THAN YOUR GOAL TIMES) AND YOU ARE WORKING ON BEHAVIOR.  ALSO BECAUSE YOU ARE WALKING MORE STEPS, THAT ALONE WILL MAKE IT LONGER.  THAT IS FINE THOUGH, BECAUSE JUST GETTING YOUR 4 IN A ROWS (IN CHALLENGING BUT NOT OVERWHELMING DISTRACTIONS) WILL BE HARDER.

1.  Sits first command 5-15 minutes   Goal:  To be able to do three sets of 4 in a row under 5 minutes at a distraction level that was challenging but not overwhelming.

NOTE:  THIS WAS ABLE TO BE DONE AT MY HOUSE.  SO NOW FIND A PLACE WHERE IT IS CHALLENGING BUT NOT OVERWHELMING.  


2.  Sit Stays 5-15 minutes Goal:  To be able to do 4 for 1 minute (eventually remember that you need to work at less time first to work back up to the duration that you have in no to mild distractions) in under 6 minutes.

NOTE: WORKING ON DISTANCE IS NOT IMPORTANT WITH THE DISTRACTIONS.  IF YOU FIND YOURSELF AT HOME AND YOU WANT TO DO A SET AT A DISTANCE, YOU MAKE IT VERY MILD DISTRACTIONS AND BACK TIE THE LEASH TO SOMETHING SO HE CAN'T MOVE FROM THE SPOT.  HAVING A SIT FROM A DISTANCE IN MILD DISTRACTONS THAT THE GOAL CAN BE MADE, DOES START TO IMPROVE YOUR WORK IN DISTACTIONS AS A WHOLE BUT THIS IS NOT THE MOST IMPORTANT THING AS FAR AS I AM CONCERNED.

This video shows why you should work up close and not at a distance from Mickey this week.  Remember that the most important part his behavioral change, impulse control, and the ability to do 4 in a row at whatever time and distraction that you are working on.   Also homework must be on leash.


This video shows how you should start working with Mickey on a 6 foot leash around challenging but not overwhelming distractions (this is where we worked with the visual & audio distraction, but you probably won't hear that on the video because my earbuds were in).

3.  Send to Place 5-15 minutes Goal:  To send your dog from a distance (maybe just 6 inches away, meaning you stop 6 inches away) for 3 sets of 4 times in a row under 5 minutes in low to mild distractions.

NOTE 1 ON SEND TO PLACE: WHEN YOU COME HERE, YOU LEAD HIM ONTO THE PLACE.  WORK ON STOPPING, POINTING, (DO NOT MOVE YOU ARMS OR HANDS OTHER THAN TO POINT) AND HAVE MICKEY WALK ON.  ON THIS WEEK, WE ARE USUALLY WORKING ON THE DOG WALKING ON FROM MORE OF A DISTANCE SO IT CAN BE BUILT UP TO SENDING ACROSS THE ROOM.  THIS COMMAND HAS THE DOG WALKING AWAY FROM A DISTRACTION TO HIS PLACE EVENTUALLY.  I WOULD PRACTICE THIS STAND ALONE IN LOW TO MILD DISTRACTIONS.

NOTE 2 ON SEND TO PLACE:  WE PRACTICED THIS WITH RECALL ON WEEK 2.  I WOULD PRACTICE THIS ALONE AS A COMMAND THIS WEEK.

This is an example of a send to place video from more of a distance.   In order to do this, you have to not lead your dog on in any way EXCEPT at time of correction (leash tug or body bump) but remember that does not count as successful and you have to start your set of 4 in a row over again.


4.  Circle Place 5-15 minutes  Goal:  To be able to do 4 in a row for 1 minute with or in challenging but not overwhelming distractions.  

NOTE 1 ON CIRCLE PLACE:  YOU ARE STILL SENDING TO PLACE, BUT IF YOU ARE NOT MAKING THE GOAL OF SENDING HIM FROM 6 INCHES AWAY, THEN GO CLOSE UP TO THE PLACE SO YOU CAN CONCENTRATE ON THIS.  ALSO, YOU COULD PRACTICE RECALLS WITH THIS UNLESS IT IS STILL TO CHALLENGING FOR MICKEY (MEANING BARKING AND REACTIVITY).  IF THAT IS THE CASE, JUST WORK ON CIRCLE PLACE. FOR THIS SESSION.

NOTE 2 ON CIRCLE PLACE:  WE DID PRACTICE THIS HERE BUT MY CAMERA DID NOT CATCH IT. SO I WILL FIND THE NEXT BEST VIDEO.

In this video, I am training a dog who is learning to not be reactive to dogs on leash.  She is much further along than Mickey, so use this as just an example.  YOUR circles should be close up to start and you should definitely be holding the 6' LEASH.  This video is done with audio noises, but you can't hear them because my earbuds screen out that sound effectively when I am training.


5.  Recalls or the Come Command (this is not the most important this week if you are pressed for time) 5-15 minutes Goal:  To have your dog come towards you, stop close enough to touch them without stepping forward, and then sit.   The quantity and time goal is 3 sets of 4 in a row under 5 minutes in low to mild distractions.

NOTES FOR RECALL:  THIS WOULD BE AN EXCELLENT EXCERISE TO COMBINE WITH YOUR WORK ON SIT STAYS FROM A DISTANCE WITHOUT DISTRACTIONS (SO THAT WOULD BE A GOAL OF 4 IN A ROW FOR 1 MINUTE IN UNDER 6 MINUTES).

This is a video example of what I mean.   It is too difficult at this point for you to practice both getting to the goal at the same time (though it might happen) so you would want to rotate your concentration on the goal.  1 day you are practicing both, but just concentrating on stay from a distance for example.

Also you will note that I am working with food in this video.  You can do that as well, but we did not go over the exact process for that to get the best results.  I use food to get them to come in closer to me and sit (when they start to know to do that).  These days, I hold the food at my waist in a closed fist.  I keep my hand against my body this helps with getting your dog in closer in time.  When they have sat at the close distance I want, then I say yes and open my hand.  If my dog is further away than I would like (and I am working on that), I still do this and this gets most dogs to come step closer for their reward.  Over time, since they want the reward, they learn the distance that I want.  Also if your dog will step forward again, you can repeat the "come" command after they sit the first time to move them in closer.




Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Week 2 The Recall or Come Command

  Equipment Needed :   6' Leash (week 1, afterwards we will use 15' long line); Training Collar Explanation and Goal of Exercise:   Formal command that requires the dog's immediate response to the command in a straight line that ends very close to the owner/handler/trainer in a sit position (auto sit). Uses for This Exercise:    This is an immediate directive to return to the owner.   This can be just to leash up, or the owner/trainer/handler could see danger up ahead.   This exercise, done well and to a standard, can not only return your dog to you, but also avoid some dangerous situations (hole in the ground, barbed wire, away from wild animals that have come into the yard ET). The following are the steps for this exercise: NOTE 1:  THIS EXERCISE IS WRITTEN AS IF YOU ARE ALSO PRACTICING HEEL.  YOU DON'T NEED TO PRACTICE HEEL TO DO THIS; YOU CAN JUST WALK IF YOU LIKE. NOTE 2:  IT IS POSSIBLE TO PRACTICE YOUR STA...
Read more

Week 1 Notes, Homework, and Video

Image
     NOTE 1:  ALL TRAINING SHOULD BE DONE WITH TRAINING COLLAR AND TRAINING LEASH ON. NOTE 2:   DO NOT LEAVE TRAINING COLLAR OR TRAINING SLIP LEAD ON WHEN YOU ARE NOT ACTIVELY TRAINING YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  PLEASE PUT ON YOUR TRAINING COLLAR OR SLIP LEAD CORRECTLY.  ALSO BE SURE TO HOLD THE LEASH CORRECTLY. This is a link to a leash article on our business blog.  Leashes How to Hold Them and How to Fold Them . NOTE 4:  EVERYTHING THIS WEEK SHOULD BE DONE IN LOW AND EASY DISTRACTION (INSIDE IN A QUIET AREA). NOTE 5:   THE GOALS ARE PLACES TO WORK TO IN THE FUTURE.  IF YOU DON'T MAKE THE GOAL, DON'T WORRY AS LONG AS YOU PUT IN THE WORK TOWARDS THE GOAL.  PLEASE REMEMBER THAT YOU CAN CALL OR EMAIL ME WITH ANY TRAINING PROBLEMS THAT COME UP IN BETWEEN LESSONS. NOTE 6:  IF YOU DON'T GET THROUGH ALL THE EXERCISES IN ONE DAY, YOU CAN JUST BE SURE THAT THE EXERCISES YOU DID NOT GET TO ARE DONE THE NEXT DAY.  ...
Read more

Week 1 Long Place

Image
  Explanation and Goal:   This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).   This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but owners must have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.   Usually this is eventually used for a half hour or an hour.  It is like a crate without walls.  It allows your dog to feel more included, but they are responsible for staying there until released.  This command is valuable when you need to move them out of the way to do chores and/or you have company over.     Long place is technically the 4th step in teaching the place command:      First step is intro.  Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it.  "Place" is said when al...
Read more